Bolo Bao Loaf

plus, bolo baos with milk tea custard!

Hi!

Before we get to today’s newsletter, a little housekeeping: I’ve finally made an index for all the (70+) newsletter recipes! It’s organized by type of baked good, and I’ll continue updating it as new recipes are published.

During our recent trip to the west coast, we stopped by Regent Bakery, a throwback to my childhood. When it opened, Regent was one of the few Chinese bakeries on the Eastside; and it quickly became a popular destination for bubble tea and Asian-style birthday cakes / pastries. I noticed that in addition to the classic bolo bao (“pineapple bun”), they also sold a pineapple bun loaf. Next baking project: immediately sorted!

If you’ve never had a pineapple bun before, the first thing you need to know is that the bread doesn’t actually contain any pineapple or pineapple flavor. Rather, the buns are baked with a crackly cookie top (similar to craquelin on a cream puff), giving them a pineapple-esque appearance. Pineapple buns are often served plain or with a generous slab of butter, though red bean and custard-filled buns are also popular.

I’ve got two bolo bao recipes for you today: first, the bolo bao loaf. Compared to making individual buns, a bolo bao loaf is a delightfully low-effort affair — it doesn’t involve much more work than a typical sandwich bread recipe (in this case, my fluffy, lightly sweetened milk bread). The topping on this loaf stays nice and crisp for as long as the loaf lasts…which, I’m guessing, won’t be too long! My kids love enjoying a thick slice for breakfast.

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For paid subscribers, I’m also sharing a recipe for bolo bao with milk tea custard. The assertive tea-infused pastry cream is the perfect foil for fluffy, crunchy-topped milk buns. You could make these the classic round shape, but I made them into more…pineapply shaped buns.

These are perfect for a leisurely weekend breakfast or perhaps an upcoming Chinese New Year gathering!

Baker’s notes

This dough can be a slow riser due to its enrichments, especially during cool winter months. For both the bulk fermentation and final proof stages, I like to place the dough in a turned off oven with a pan of steaming water on the shelf below.

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Bolo Bao (Pineapple Bun) Loaf

Makes one 9”x5” or 9”x4”x4” loaf

Ingredients:

Milk bread dough:

Tangzhong:

• 25g flour (all purpose, whole grain, or bread)

• 100g milk (whole, non-dairy, or buttermilk)

Final dough:

• All the tangzhong

• 90g milk, straight from the fridge (whole, non-dairy, or buttermilk)

• 30g heavy cream, straight from the fridge

• 50g egg (about 1 large), straight from the fridge

• 50g 100% hydration ripe sourdough starter (No starter? Increase milk in tangzhong to 125g, instant yeast to 6g, and all purpose flour in final dough to 125g)

• 55g granulated sugar

• 21g (3 Tbsp) nonfat milk powder

• 7g (1 3/4 tsp if Diamond Crystal) kosher salt

• 5g (1 1/4 tsp) instant yeast

• 225g bread flour

• 100g all purpose flour

• 56g unsalted butter, room temperature

For the topping:

• 28g unsalted butter, at room temperature

• 60g granulated sugar

• 1/8 tsp baking powder

• 1/8 tsp baking soda

• 14g nonfat milk powder

• 1 large egg yolk

• 1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract

• 60g all purpose flour

Egg wash:

• One large egg

• Good splash of heavy cream

• Pinch of salt

Method:

Milk bread dough:

Make the Tangzhong: In a small saucepan, whisk the flour and milk together until smooth. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens enough for the whisk to leave lines on the bottom of the pan, about 3-5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Alternatively, if mixing by hand, transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Mix the Final Dough: Whisk the cold milk into the tangzhong, followed by the cream, egg, and the sourdough starter. Whisk in the remaining final dough ingredients.

Knead on medium-low speed until the gluten is moderately developed, about 5 minutes. The dough will start out sticky and rough but should gradually come together and feel quite smooth and stretchy. Turn off mixer and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Turn the mixer to low and add the butter about 1 tbsp at a time, incorporating each batch before adding the next. Turn the speed back up to medium-low and continue kneading until the gluten is very well developed and the dough passes the windowpane test, about 8-10 minutes. The dough should be smooth and supple.

If mixing by hand, follow the same mixing order as above but note that mixing times will take longer. I like to use the slap-and-fold method to knead this dough. (See an example in my instagram highlights.)

Shape the dough into a smooth ball and transfer to a lightly oiled container. Cover and let rise at warm room temperature until doubled, 60-90 minutes. Alternatively, let rise for at room temperature 30 minutes, then refrigerate for 8-24 hours.

(At this point, make the topping, recipe below.)

Shape, proof, and bake: When ready to shape, grease a 9x5 loaf pan or 9x4x4 pullman pan. Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces and preshape gently into rounds. To shape the sandwich loaf, take one round and place it smooth side down on a clean work surface (I like to use a silicone mat). Roll the dough into a rectangle roughly 4”x10”, aiming to degas the dough well. (Roll from the center out, which should push the air bubbles to the edges. Pop any air bubbles you see; this will help create a tight and smooth crumb.) Fold the two long edges to the center, slightly overlapping. Roll back into a rectangle about 4”x10”, again doing your best to fully degas the dough, then roll up tightly like a jelly roll. Pinch seam to seal. Repeat with other two portions.

Transfer rolls to the prepared pan, seam sides down. Mist the surface with oil and cover loosely with plastic. Proof at warm room temperature until dough has doubled (in a 9x5 pan, just above the rim; in pullman pan, about 80% full) and passes the poke test, about 60-90 minutes.

About half an hour before the loaf is ready to bake, preheat the oven to 375F with a rack in the middle. Take the bolo topping out of the fridge and cut into thirds, crosswise. Let stand at room temperature until time to bake so it’s easier to place on the loaf. Whisk together the egg wash ingredients.

When the loaf has fully proofed, lightly brush the surface with egg wash. Carefully drape a piece of bolo topping over each hump, tucking it in around the edges. (It’s ok if it cracks a little.) Brush the surface with egg wash.

Place in the preheated oven and immediately turn down the heat to 350F. Bake for 40-45 minutes, or until risen and golden and the center of the loaf registers at least 195F. Rotate the pan about halfway through baking and tent with foil if it’s browning too quickly.

Let the loaf rest in the pan for 2 minutes, then remove from the pan and cool completely on a wire rack before serving. To slice, tip the loaf onto its side and use a sharp serrated knife to slice to desired thickness.

Store leftovers in an airtight plastic bag for up to 4 days.

Bolo topping:

In a medium bowl, combine everything except the egg yolk, vanilla, and flour. With a handheld electric mixer (or a spatula and some elbow grease), beat on medium speed until the butter has broken down completely and the mixture is evenly sandy, 2-3 minutes. Add the egg yolk and vanilla and mix until smooth. Pour in the flour and use a spatula to fold the mixture until it forms a cohesive dough.

Tip the dough onto a piece of parchment. Lay a second piece of parchment on top and roll the dough into a 5”x10” (4.5”x10” if using a pullman pan) rectangle. Score a diamond crosshatch pattern into the dough, being careful not to cut all the way through. Place on a small cutting board or sheet tray, still sandwiched between parchment, and refrigerate until needed.

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Today’s recipe for bolo bao with milk tea custard is available below for paid subscribers. To access the recipe as well as all 70+ past recipes in the archive, consider upgrading to a paid subscription for $5/month. Thank you for supporting my work!

Bolo Bao with Milk Tea Custard

Makes 12 large buns