Buttermilk custard panna cotta
A perfect make-ahead dessert
This panna cotta is inspired by my signature ice cream flavor, a buttermilk custard swirled with the fruit of the moment. And although I’ve made buttermilk-laced panna cotta in the past, this recipe is my new forever favorite. With more buttermilk than cream and enough egg yolks to add silky richness, this version manages to be both rich and light, enjoyable on its own but also a perfect foil for some juicy fruit and/or a crisp cookie.
We start by making a creme anglaise (stovetop custard sauce thickened with egg yolks) with buttermilk and cream, then set it with just enough gelatin so that it holds its shape on a plate but is wonderfully wobbly. It’s sort of a cross between creme caramel and a traditional panna cotta made with just dairy + gelatin. And I mean, how can this texture not make you smile?
Tips for success
Heat the custard gently. Overheating the custard can cause it curdle. Cook just until it’s thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, or to approximately 175F on a digital thermometer.
Don’t skip the cooling process before portioning and refrigerating the panna cotta. If you put the mixture straight into the fridge while warm, the cream may rise to the top and you’ll end up with two distinct layers. It might look cool, but probably not what you want. Let the whole mixture cool to roughly room temperature, stirring occasionally to keep everything emusified, before dividing into molds and chilling.
Don’t rush the setting time. Give the panna cotta at least 6 hours to set, especially if you plan to unmold them. Panna cotta is a fantastic make-ahead dessert; they’ll keep in the fridge for several days!
A note on ingredients
I used powdered gelatin, 35% cream, and pure 1% buttermilk for this recipe (both my dairy products are very pourable). I played around with the gelatin amount quite a bit before settling on a 1.5% gelatin to liquid ratio (not including the water used to bloom the gelatin). I’ve long been stymied by the big differences in gelatin percentages in panna cotta recipes; and at the end of the day, I think the thickness/fat content of the dairy products you’re using makes a huge difference as to how much gelatin you’ll need to adequately set the panna cotta. To ensure results similar to mine, try to use dairy products with the same fat content.
Buttermilk custard panna cotta
Serves 4
Ingredients:
35g cold water
7g (2 1/4 tsp; one packet of Knox) powdered gelatin
45g egg yolks (about 3 large)
45g granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
150g heavy cream (I used 35%)
225g buttermilk (I used 1%; DO NOT use a homemade substitute!)
3/4 tsp pure vanilla extract
Method:
Bloom the gelatin: Pour the cold water into a shallow, wide bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface. Let bloom while you cook the custard.
Cook the custard: Set a fine mesh strainer over a large liquid measuring glass. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt until well combined. Add the cream and buttermilk and whisk to combine.
Cook over medium low heat, stirring and scraping the bottom/sides of the pan frequently with a spatula, until the mixture reaches 175F. Do not overheat or the mixture will curdle. Remove the pan from the heat and scrape in the bloomed gelatin, followed by the vanilla. Stir until the gelatin has fully melted, then strain into the prepared measuring glass.
Cool the custard: Fill a mixing bowl with ice and very cold water and set the glass in the ice bath. Let the mixture cool in the ice bath, stirring occasionally, until it reaches 80F. (This helps prevent the fat from settling on the top of the panna cottas. If you don’t want to bother with an ice bath, you can pop the whole measuring glass into the fridge and cool the mixture more passively to 80F; but do stir every so often to encourage it to stay homogenous.)
Divide and chill: Divide the panna cotta mixture evenly among 4 glasses, 120-125g per container. I like using 125 ml jam jars, but any similar-sized mold will do. (If you don’t plan to unmold your panna cottas, choose something a little deeper so you’ll have room for toppings.) Refrigerate the panna cottas until set, at least 6 hours and up to 5 days. (I leave them uncovered for the first day, then cover any that aren’t eaten within 24 hours to keep a skin from forming.)
Serve: To unmold the panna cottas, dip the bases in hot (~150F, not boiling please!) water for 5 seconds, then invert onto a plate. If needed, tap the bottom of the container firmly to encourage the panna cotta to release. If it’s a little stubborn, dip again in the hot water for another 5 seconds and try again. (I prefer not to run a knife around the edges as I think it tends to mess the sides up.) Alternatively, you can serve the panna cottas in their containers. They are fantastic with a chunky fruit compote and crunchy cookies (I ate mine with sour cherries and some leftover streusel)!
