Jam and Custard Buns

Two ways!

Hello there!

When it comes to developing recipes, some are sprints and others are marathons. These jam and custard buns definitely fall into the latter category. I’ve been slowly working on them for probably a couple years now, making a batch every few months with lots of little tweaks and adjustments along the way. I’m so pleased with the final product. “Custardy carb” is one of my favorite food groups and these buns tick all the right boxes: soft, cardamom-perfumed milk bread base, a generous amount of filling, and buttery, crunchy streusel to top it off.

For paid subscribers, at the bottom of this post, I’m sharing how to turn the same base dough and custard into another creamy treat: sugared jam and cream buns! These babies are filled with a billowy diplomat cream and a touch of jam, like a custard donut without the frying.

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Baker’s Notes

• For the neatest shape and best filling-to-bread ratio, use a mold. I use these 4-inch tart rings, but have also made them in 4” loose-bottom tart pans similar to these. The mold’s structure helps the bun rise up rather than out, restricting the spread of the outer rim. This means you can get a bit of filling in each bite — the best! That being said, you can make these freeform; your buns will likely end up slightly flatter and wider with a thicker rim. Still delicious, though!

• Keep the dough and edge thin. To really pack the filling in, you need a healthy-sized space for your custard. Whether you’re baking in molds or freeform, make sure to roll the dough thin and keep the outer rim narrow, no more than 1/2”.

• Don’t skimp on the streusel! The streusel for these buns is not just for taste. It also helps to soak up excess moisture from the jam and custard and simply makes them look better. Without the streusel, the jam can create some ugly streaks in the custard as it liquefies from the heat in the oven. Streusel is the answer. Use it all!

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I’m fond of employing the triple threat of whole grain flour, sourdough starter, and buttermilk in my enriched breads for texture and flavor. However, you can sub all purpose flour for the spelt and whole milk for buttermilk without any adjustments. If you don’t have any starter, increase the buttermilk in the tangzhong to 125g, add 25g all-purpose flour to the final dough, and increase the instant yeast to 6g (1 1/2 tsp).

Jam and Custard Streusel Buns

Makes 10

Ingredients:

Milk bread dough:

Tangzhong:

• 25g all purpose flour

• 100g buttermilk

Final dough:

• All the tangzhong

• 100g buttermilk, straight from the fridge

• 50g egg (about 1 large), straight from the fridge

• 50g 100% hydration ripe sourdough starter

• 55g granulated sugar

• 21g (3 Tbsp) nonfat milk powder

• 7g (1 3/4 tsp if Diamond Crystal) kosher salt

• 5g (1 1/4 tsp) instant yeast

• 225g bread flour

• 75g spelt flour

• Seeds of 8 green cardamom pods, ground (~1 tsp ground), optional

• 56g (4 Tbsp) unsalted butter, room temperature

For the pastry cream:

• 65g granulated sugar

• 30g cornstarch

• 1/4 tsp kosher salt

• 75g whole egg (~1 1/2 large — save the rest for egg wash)

• 360g whole milk

• 21g unsalted butter, cold and cubed

• 1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract

For the streusel:

• 50g all purpose flour

• 40g granulated sugar

• 1/4 tsp kosher salt

• 40g unsalted butter, cold and cubed

To finish:

• ~60g thick jam or preserves

• Egg wash (remaining half egg from pastry cream, beaten with a splash of milk)

Method:

Milk bread dough:

Make the Tangzhong: In a small saucepan, whisk the flour and buttermilk together until smooth. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens enough for the whisk to leave lines on the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Alternatively, if mixing by hand, transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Mix the Final Dough: Whisk the cold buttermilk into the tangzhong, followed by the egg and the sourdough starter. Whisk in the remaining final dough ingredients.

Knead on medium-low speed until the gluten is moderately developed, about 7 minutes. The dough will start out sticky and rough but should gradually come together and feel quite smooth and stretchy. Turn off mixer and rest, covered, for 5 minutes. Turn the mixer to low and add the butter about 1 tbsp at a time, incorporating each batch before adding the next. Turn the speed back up to medium-low and continue kneading until the gluten is very well developed and the dough passes the windowpane test, about 10 minutes. The dough should be smooth and supple.

If mixing by hand, follow the same mixing order as above but note that mixing times will take longer. I like to use the slap-and-fold method to knead this dough. (See an example in my instagram highlights.)

Shape the dough into a smooth ball and transfer to a lightly oiled container. Cover and refrigerate for 8-24 hours. (Alternatively, you can let rise until doubled at room temperature, 60-90 minutes. I prefer an overnight rise for ease of shaping and to break up the process.)

(At this point, make the pastry cream and streusel, recipes below.)

Shape, proof, and bake: When ready to shape, lightly grease ten 4-inch tart rings (or similarly sized tart pans) and place on a large baking sheet. (If you don’t have tart rings/pans, you can bake these freeform but I like the structure that a mold provides, helping the buns rise up rather than out.)

Divide the dough into 10 equal pieces, ~70-75g each. Round into balls, then lightly cover with a damp tea towel or plastic wrap and let rest for 10 minutes.

Working with one piece at a time, roll the dough into an even 4.5-5” circle (it will be fairly thin). Press into the tart ring, pushing it up the sides to create a border no thicker than 1/2”. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Cover and let proof at room temperature until puffy and a finger pressed into the dough fills back in slowly, ~60 minutes. About halfway through the proofing time, preheat the oven to 400F with a rack in the middle.

When ready to bake, gently press down the bottoms of the buns to make room for as much filling as possible. Brush the dough with an even layer of egg wash. Pipe or spoon in about 45-50g of pastry cream, leveling with an offset spatula if needed. Dollop a generous teaspoon of jam in the centers. Generously sprinkle the tops with streusel, keeping just the jammy centers exposed.

Bake until the edges are risen and golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool on a wire for a couple minutes, then remove the rings.

Buns are best enjoyed just slightly warm from the oven. Leftovers will keep at cool room temperature for up to 2 days; rewarm in a low oven before serving.

Pastry cream:

Place a strainer over a heat-safe container (I like using a pie plate or quarter-sheet pan as the increased surface area speeds cooling).

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, and salt until very well blended. Whisk in the egg. Whisk in the whole milk until smooth.

Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the custard thickens and starts to bubble. Once large bubbles appear, turn the heat down to low and continue whisking the custard on the heat for two full minutes to cook out any starchiness. Remove from heat and whisk in the butter and vanilla. Strain into the prepared container. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly against the surface of the custard and cover. Refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours (or up to 5 days). Use a spatula to beat back to a smooth and creamy texture before using.

Streusel:

In a small bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, and salt. Scatter the butter pieces over the top. Use your fingers to rub the butter in until all the dry ingredients are moistened and the mixture forms uneven clumps. Cover and refrigerate until needed.

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Want an extra dose of custardy carbs? My sugared diplomat cream-filled bun recipe below is an exclusive for paid subscribers. This newsletter is entirely reader-funded; subscriptions help offset ingredient costs and fund the research, testing, and writing that goes behind each recipe. Thank you for your support!