Fluffy banana cake

And a silky milk chocolate whipped ganache

You all probably have a dearly beloved banana bread recipe, but do you have a soft and fluffy banana cake recipe? No?

Well, look no further. This sponge-style cake manages to pack in a ton of banana flavor while also boasting a soft, cottony crumb:

This cake uses the water bath method for an even rise and extra moist crumb. (I’ve covered my favorite chiffon cake techniques in a previous newsletter, so won’t go into great detail here.) While you could bake this cake as a round, I decided to make it in a regular 8x8x2 square baking pan. It’s a pan most bakers should have on hand and results in a perfect snacking size cake. You will need to line the pan on all sides with parchment for support as the cake rises. Use some metal bulldog clips to secure the paper if you’re concerned about it falling into your batter:

Cotton sponge cake recipes often call for high sided pans (usually 3” high) to help maintain a smooth top once the cake is unmolded — the sides have more support so the cake will rise with less of a dome. Using a shorter pan does mean the cake will dome more in the oven, then slightly wrinkle on top as it cools. But as long as the cake is evenly textured, this is fine!

If, however, the cake immediately sinks when you take it out of the oven and/or the bottom has a dense, gummy layer of cake, this means there was either a problem with incorporating the meringue into the batter or the cake was underbaked. It can be a little tricky to determine the doneness of water bath sponges as everyone’s oven is different; so rely more on the visual and auditory cues than the clock.

Enjoy this fluffy banana cake plain or with a dollop of whipped cream. For paid subscribers, I’m sharing an extra special way to gild the lily: silky milk chocolate whipped ganache, which you will want to spread on everything. Think of it like a chocolate whipped cream, but with a little extra body and stability (it’ll last for several days in the fridge). Definitely one I’ll be using again and again!

Fluffy banana cake

Makes one 8x8 cake

Ingredients:

For the fluffy banana cake:

• 110g all-purpose flour, sifted

• 70g neutral oil

• 50g whole milk

• 1 tsp espresso powder (optional, for a more even color)

• 2 tsp pure vanilla extract

• 1/4 tsp kosher salt

• 160g banana puree (from ~2 small ripe bananas) — very smooth, for the best textured cake

• 6 large eggs (58-60g in shell), cold and separated

• 1/2 tsp cream of tartar or 1 tsp lemon juice

• 100g granulated sugar

Method:

For the banana cake:

Preheat the oven to 300F with a rack in the lower third. Line an 8x8 square aluminum or metal baking pan with parchment paper, with the paper extending least two inches above all sides for easy removal. You’ll also need a larger oven-safe pan with at least 2” sides (either a 9”x13” or 10”x10” works well) for the water bath.

Sift the flour into a medium bowl. Combine the oil and milk in a heatproof measuring glass and heat it until it registers 160-175F on a digital thermometer. For me, this takes about 45 seconds in the microwave; alternatively, you can do this on the stovetop in a small saucepan. Pour the warm liquid over the flour and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the espresso powder (if using), vanilla, and salt, followed by the banana puree. Whisk in the egg yolks two at a time until smooth.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low until foamy. Increase the speed to medium. When the whites reach soft peak stage, slowly add the sugar a spoonful at a time. Once all the sugar has been added, continue whipping on medium speed until the meringue is glossy and holds medium peaks. (Beating the meringue too stiff for this style of cake can lead to cracks on the surface.) Scrape the meringue into a wide mixing bowl to facilitate folding.

Add a large scoop of meringue to the yolk batter and fold it in using a balloon whisk. Scrape the yolk batter over the remaining meringue. Use a whisk to fold the batters together carefully but firmly. When a few streaks of white remain, switch to a flexible spatula and continue folding until the batter is smooth and uniform in color, taking care not to overmix. Scoop all the way down to the bottom of the bowl to make sure no denser batter is hanging out on the bottom.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Tap the pan firmly on the counter a couple times, then run a skewer or chopstick through the batter to pop any large air bubbles.

Place the pan into the larger oven-safe pan (I used a 10” square pan). Fill the larger pan with room temperature water until it reaches about an inch up sides of the 8” pan.

Carefully transfer the pans to the oven and bake for 60 minutes. Lower the temperature to 275F and bake for an additional 15-25 minutes or until the cake is risen and springy to the touch and a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. If you press gently on the cake, it shouldn’t sound like wet shoes on linoleum. (Avoid opening the oven for the first hour of baking, or the cake may collapse.)

Remove the cake from the water bath and rap the tin firmly on the counter. Invert it onto a wire rack or plate and remove the paper, then immediately reinvert to cool. If the cake is well baked, the sides should remain smooth and straight, though the top may wrinkle as the cake cools. Cool completely before slicing or frosting.

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Milk chocolate whipped ganache